Poon’s London bistro founder on the fetishising of Chinese food
2024-08-04
Poon's Legacy: Pioneering Chinese Cuisine in London
Amy Poon's journey is a captivating tale of culinary heritage, global exploration, and the pursuit of authentic Chinese flavors. As the daughter of Bill Poon, a Hong Kong migrant who became the world's first Chinese chef to earn a Michelin star, Amy has grown up immersed in the rich tapestry of Chinese cuisine. Her latest venture, Poon's London, a Chinese bistro and deli, aims to bring the flavors of her family's legacy to the heart of Bermondsey's vibrant food scene.
Embracing the Culinary Circus: A Daughter's Perspective
Navigating the Challenges of the Restaurant Industry
Despite her family's deep roots in the restaurant business, Amy initially swore off the industry, likening it to the "circus" – a world of performance, danger, and glamour that hides the gritty realities of hard work and loneliness. Growing up, she witnessed the sacrifices her family made, with restaurants often open during holidays and weekends when people wanted to celebrate. However, Amy also fondly remembers the perks, such as her friends being treated like guests and her ability to indulge in Peking duck or other delicacies.
Poon's: Redefining Chinese Cuisine in the UK
Poon's, the family's renowned restaurant in Covent Garden, was a game-changer in the UK's Chinese culinary landscape. It broke the mold by not being located in Chinatown and eschewing the traditional Chinese restaurant aesthetic. The most striking feature was the glass-enclosed kitchen, which allowed diners to witness the meticulous food preparation and high standards of kitchen hygiene – a stark contrast to the misconceptions about Chinese food being "dodgy" or involving exotic ingredients like snakes.
The Matriarch's Influence: A Guiding Hand in the Family Business
Amy's mother played a pivotal role in the family business, often stepping in to protect the staff and their families. Amy recounts witnessing her mother's compassionate interventions, such as when a chef's gambling addiction threatened his family's well-being. The matriarch would step in, ensuring the chef's basic needs were met and his family was cared for, showcasing the family's commitment to their employees and the community they served.
Exploring the World, Embracing the Poon Legacy
Despite her global travels and experiences, including stints in Sydney, Tokyo, and Singapore, Amy never seriously considered settling in Hong Kong, the birthplace of her family's culinary heritage. She fondly remembers her first visit to the city as a child, captivated by the "smell of money" in the harbor. In her early twenties, she even dated someone from Hong Kong, experiencing the city beyond the typical tourist lens. However, Amy ultimately chose to return to London, where she could build upon her family's legacy and bring the flavors of Poon's to a new generation of diners.
At Poon's London, Amy's vision is to offer Chinese home cooking, providing a taste of nostalgia for those who may not have a "nice Chinese friend" to cook for them. She acknowledges that she is not a trained chef like her father, but her passion for food and cooking, combined with the power of nostalgia, drives her to create dishes that capture the essence of authentic Chinese flavors. Amy also recognizes the "fetishism" surrounding Chinese cuisine, challenging the notion that Chinese families spend hours crafting dumplings, when in reality, many opt for the convenience of frozen options.Poon's London aims to bridge the gap between the romanticized perception of Chinese cooking and the everyday realities of modern Chinese families. By offering a range of signature Poon's sauces, dumplings, and ingredients, Amy hopes to share the flavors of her family's legacy with a new generation of food enthusiasts, while also providing a welcoming space for those seeking a taste of home-cooked Chinese cuisine.